by
Jim Goodman
Golden Shuttle Island (Jinsuodao) |
A major reason for Dali’s
popularity as a travel destination is its unrivaled natural setting. It lies on a long, lakeside plain of roughly
2000 meters altitude, flanked by the heavily forested Azure Mountains, with
snow-capped peaks over 4000 meters high. 18 streams tumble down the slopes and
flow into the ear-shaped lake called Erhai, Yunnan’s second largest body of
water, around 42 km long and 3.5-7.5 km wide. The lower, mostly barren and ruddier Phoenix Mountains bound
Erhai’s eastern shore, lying much closer to the lake, reducing the amount of
land suitable for cultivation and therefore the number of villages.
Most visitors to the area confine
themselves to the western side of the lake. Dali Old Town and most of the ancient pagodas, temples and
historical relics lie here. Cable
cars take people to temples up the mountains for views of the lake and the
plain, itself filled with Bai, Hui and Han villages, rice fields and vegetable
gardens. Butterfly Spring and
popular tourist destinations like Zhoucheng, a Bai village specializing in
tie-dyed fabrics, and Xichou, formerly an important stopover on the old Tea and
Horses Road to Tibet, are in the northern part of this plain.
Bai houses on Jinsuodao |
All of these places will be
swarming with visitors practically any time of year. In contrast, except for Wase on market day and Nanzhao
Island, a fancy theme park near Shuanglang at the north end of the lake, where
large tour boats from Xiaguan make a daily call, the eastern shore of Erhai
attracts few visitors. Yet an excursion
there means a look at a traditional Bai way of life less disturbed by tourist
influences or commercial development.
The few guesthouses are basically designed for simple overnight stays
for itinerant merchants. The
restaurants mainly cater to fellow villagers too busy to cook their own
food. Fishing and farming
constitute the traditional Bai way of life here. On market days the people sell their products to each other
and visitors won’t find tables hawking tourist souvenirs and fake
antiques.
Almost directly across the
lake from Dali Old Town is the eastern shore’s first attraction when coming up
from Xiaguan—Golden Shuttle Island (Jinsuodao). A rocky, narrow islet 1500 meters long, so named for
its shuttle-like shape, low in the middle with a hill at each end, it lies a
little offshore about 3 km south of the large Bai village of Haidong. Ferries take visitors across to the
island. Most of its stone and gray
brick houses, some with whitewashed walls, stand on the eastern side where the
ferries land, beside a row of umbrellas shading vending stalls offering local
products like dried fish, snails, herbs and a local acorn.
temple interior on Jinsuodao |
The hundred or more Bai
families here depend mainly on fishing.
No real farms exist on the island, only vegetable gardens. During the Nanzhao Era, coterminous
with the Tang Dynasty, Jinsuodao was a summer retreat for the royal
family. The king had a palace here
of red walls and yellow tiles, a fishing pier, garden and a tower for viewing
the lake. All that is gone now, but
the view remains, especially from atop either of the hills. You can see the Three Pagodas from here
and the blue-gray massif of the Azure Mountains towering behind them.
The island’s houses are
typical Bai compounds, with walls of stone and gray brick and tiled roofs, like
those across the lake. A small
temple houses the local protector deity, with a couple of unusual statues
inside. One depicts a man with ludicrously
long legs and another a man reaching for a fruit with his abnormally
outstretched arm. The island also
has some underground caves, famous for their use in the winter of 1872 to
conceal remnants of Du Wenxiu’s army after his death in Dali and the collapse
of his rebel state.
Haidong houses and farms |
Looking north from Golden
Shuttle Island the shoreline bends sharply west at Haidong, a quiet and
prosperous village with lush farms behind it, continues a couple hundred meters
and then turns north again. On the
knoll above this latter turn stands the Sky Mirror Pavilion. Originally this was another Nanzhao Era
viewing tower, destroyed, rebuilt in later centuries and augmened by a temple
to Guan Yin, the Buddhist goddess of compassion, who is a Bai favorite.
The three-tiered tower stands
up the slope past a row of small pavilions leading down to the fancy,
multi-roofed entrance gate next to the road. Occasionally boats from Dali take tourists here for the ride
and the view back across the lake.
But the usual visitors are Haidong villagers, who come not for the view
but to worship at the Guan Yin shrine.
Bai farmers here primarily grow rice, but families have their boats,
too. And while depleting fish
stocks means less fishing nowadays, the boats are still useful for
transportation and gathering up the algae and lake surface moss that can be
turned into compost for the fields.
Sky Mirror Pavilion |
Continuing north of the Sky Mirror Pavilion, the next major
village along the shore is Wase, a sprawling Bai village with, like Haidong, a
picturesque islet just offshore a few km south. Opposite the hamlet of Haiyin, much smaller than Jinsuodao,
the islet is called Xiaoputuo and holds a single, beautiful, two-tiered temple
beside a huge leafy tree nearly the same height. Perched on a platform several meters above the water, its
curved roofs with upturned corners contrast against the distant mountain slopes
to the west. The scene is
prettiest in the early morning, when the first sunrays strike the island.
Xiaoputuo |
Nearby Wase, is noted
for its market days, held on calendar dates ending in 0 or 5. With lots of available farmland beside
and beyond Wase, especially to the east, villagers depend more on farming than
fishing, especially in recent years. Many small boats lie overturned along the shore north of the
settled area and the bigger vessels with the tall masts rarely sail out onto
the lake. The boats docked in the
harbor on market days are those carrying villagers from other lakeside
settlements and tourists from Xiaguan or Dali.
However, not everyone has abandoned fishing and people in tiny
little makeshift boats, floating on blocks of Styrofoam or the inner tubes of
truck tires lashed together, still paddle through the offshore waters, using
small nets and traps to catch fish.
A few others use rods and cast their lines from the shore above Wase.
fishing near Wase |
Goods sold on
market days are mainly farm products like rice, maize, vegetables and
spices. Farmers sell the spices
mixed, with samples of the various mixtures put in little piles on a table in
front of the packaged products.
Farm tools, baskets, trays, coils of rope, footwear, household pots,
pans and utensils and snacks like deep-fried shrimp, sweets and cakes also go
on sale. Local vendors begin
setting up in the market square near the pier from 7 a.m., though the scene is
relatively quiet until nearly 9:00, when it starts getting crowded. A stall selling Bai music videos starts
playing them and this loud background music continues the rest of the day.
Wase village |
Around 11:00 the tour boat
from Dali arrives, discharging a group of mainly backpackers, who dart around
the market area looking for photo-ops, perhaps grab a bite to eat at one of the
restaurants and have to return to the boat about 1:30. The lake surface starts getting pretty
choppy in mid-afternoon and since it’s a long journey back to Dali, the boat
skipper insists, on the grounds of safety, on an early departure. And by the time it gets close to the
western shore white-tipped waves already dominate the lake surface.
market day in Wase |
Back in Wase, those who came
by passenger boat also have to leave before the water gets too rough. They don’t have as far to go, of course,
so they can stay longer than the tourists. By 3:00, though, activity in Wase starts to wind down. Visiting villagers are departing and
only local residents and those who live within walking distance still
remain. By 5:00 they are all gone,
too, and the stalls in the market square have all been dismantled. Without any bars or nightclubs, Wase
now reverts to its post-market peace and quiet.
Beyond Wase, the last
northeastern sector of Erhai is part of Eryuan County, including Shuanglang,
the next major stop up the eastern shore and arguably the prettiest Bai village
in the entire area. The
residential area lies at the base of a small hill and spreads over a
claw-shaped, flat peninsula that juts out from the middle of the village. Farms lie around and behind the hill,
but until recently Shuanglang was primarily a fishing village, especially
active in late summer, when fleets of boats set out onto the lake.
the peninsular part of Shuanglang village |
Nowadays, it looks like
tourism will soon become the biggest earner in the local economy. Just south of Shuanglang lies a small
offshore island. On my first visit
to the village twenty years ago the island was empty and boats only went there
to cast nets and lay fish traps off the shore. By the end of the decade, after a massive tourist company
investment, the place became a theme park called Nanzhao Island. It features a massive palace, central
market square, exhibition hall and various sculptures, including a marble
Avalokitesvar, supposedly copied from an ancient model. But it stands 17.56 meters tall, the
biggest marble statue in the world, and we can be pretty sure that’s several
times the size of any original model.
Nanzhao Island and lakeside restaurants |
Tour boats from Xiaguan bring
dozens of Chinese tourists here every day. Besides seeing the palace and statues, they can examine a
traditional Bai house, buy deep-fried snacks in the square and watch the
inevitable ethnic song and dance show.
For a genuine cultural experience they could skip the artificiality of
the island and explore Shuanglang instead: plenty of Bai houses here, as well as temples, markets,
people in ethnic clothing, the same snacks and food and the same magnificent
view across the lake. They don’t,
though, because organized tourism means organized presentations of whatever
attractions are in the area. Tour
operators here believe they are supposed to be professional shepherds.
In recent years Yunnan’s
railway network has extended from Xiaguan to Lijiang. Shuanglang now has a station on this line and will surely
draw more tourist attention.
Twenty years ago, pre-Nanzhao Island, only local Eryuan County buses
went there and from Dali you had to get off a north-bound bus at Jiangwei and
flag down one coming from Eryuan to get to Shuanglang. It had a couple cheap guesthouses and
maybe half a dozen restaurants or noodle shops.
Even before the train line
opened Shuanglang was already much more accessible. To visit Nanzhao Island one had to pass through or by Shuanglang
and its natural attractions encouraged returns, this time for the village
alone. Now that it has been
‘discovered’ by both national and international tourism, the conditions that
made Shuanglang such a genuine attraction may begin to erode. New hotels have been erected, including
a couple of high-end luxury hotels, restaurants line parts of the waterfront
and Dali-style souvenir shops can’t be far behind.
Shuanglang market day |
You can hardly blame the local
Bai for getting in on the tourist business. Their big earner in the past—fishing—is no longer viable. In fact, this year the government temporarily
banned fishing in Erhai, due to depleted stocks and contamination. The old fishing vessels that fascinated
me in the past no longer line the docks of the peninsula. Only small passenger boats ply the
water these days. Shuanglang’s
farms are still productive, but of course, families are bigger now, everything
is more expensive than before and some kind of income has to replace what they
once earned from fishing.
How much the coming
transformations in Shuanglang, and later on in the rest of the eastern shore
villages, will affect local people is up for speculation. The Bai are a very conservative
people. They celebrate more
festivals, follow more ancient customs and retain more of their traditional
aesthetic and cultural views than most of the province’s minorities. That’s held true in recent times even
on the western shore of Erhai, the most heavily tourist-mobbed area in the
prefecture. So there’s a good
chance Shuanglang’s new popularity will not entirely undermine local
traditions. And who knows? Maybe the lake will revive and the
people can renovate their boats and go fishing again. Anyway, in the meantime, they still have their splendid
location at the most scenic spot on Erhai Lake.
fishing boat in Shuanglang, 1994 |
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