by Jim Goodman
The landscape and culture of
southwestern Yunnan’s Menglian County very much resemble that of
Xishuangbanna. Hills rise around
the alluvial plains, where the major towns lie along rivers. The Dai minority nationality dominates
the plains population, wet-rice cultivators who live in stilted houses and practice
Theravada Buddhism. Other ethnic
minorities, from the Tibeto-Burman and Mon-Khmer linguistic groups, inhabit the
hills, growing dry rice, sugar cane or tea.
Dai temple in Menglian old town |
Menglian (the Chinese word for
the original Dai Muang Lem) was never administratively part of Xishuangbanna,
though. The southern part of
Lancang County separates it from Banna and even today travelers from Banna have
to go to Lancang City first, then go southwest to Menglian. Until the late Qing Dynasty Menglian
was an autonomous Dai state, first established in the 13th
century. The previous century a
Dai chieftain in Xishuangbanna had already founded a kingdom, but relations
between the two remained friendly.
The two shared a common religion and social order and their Dai dialects
are close as well.
The little Dai state of
Menglian not only retained its autonomy over the centuries, it remained aloof
from the internecine power struggles that plagued Xishuangbanna throughout the
19th century, when Jinghong was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt in new
locations. As a result, today
virtually nothing remains of old Jinghong palaces, walls, classic buildings,
etc, while Menglian’s old Dai
riverside chedi |
quarter still exists, nestled on a gentle slope
beside the west bank of the river, opposite the new city. In the past, the ruling family, state
officials and nobles lived in the upper part of the slope, while the commoners
lived on the flat section at the base of the hill and in hamlets across the
river. Today this section has
become part of Menglian’s commercial quarter, but the upper part of the old
town is still in place.
Most of the houses have in the
past decade or so replaced their bricks and tiles with cement and corrugated
iron. They retain the Dai style, though, with angled roofs and
sculpted peacocks below the roof apex.
And while a couple of new, large temple compounds have gone up in recent
years at the base of the hill, the old quarter still retains two of its old
temples, with wooden walls and tiled roofs, further up the slope.
The old quarter also retains the
former ruling chao’s palace, now the
city museum, just above the ceremonial center of the town, about midway on the
slope. Though it’s obviously the
biggest residential compound around, as a palace it is relatively modest. The chao
and his wife slept on simple mattresses on the floor, rather like the commoners,
and did not furnish the place with a lot of fancy furniture, even in the royal
audience hall. The kitchen is not
particularly capacious, the buildings not embellished with ornate carvings and
other decorations, the heirlooms on display not evidence of a rich royal family.
the former ruling chao muang's compound |
So it was not a particularly
wealthy state, but it didn’t really need to be. It had no quarrels with its neighbors. Its people carried on with their lives
in pretty much the same manner in the past as they do today. They raise their crops, perform their
daily chores and attend the periodic markets. They have electricity now, modern communications devices
like cell phones and computers, vehicles like motorbikes and tractor-trailers,
but their lives are still ruled by the seasons.
Menglian today still has that
relaxed, laid-back atmosphere that must have characterized the former chao muang’s realm. The city is not very big. From the new
bus station on the expanded eastern edge of the city it’s but twenty minutes
walk to the river. Traffic is not
very heavy yet. The main road
crosses the river and continues to other points in the county all the way to
Dai grill stand in Menglian city |
the Myanmar border. But above this
road, taking a walk up the slope through the old town to the former palace or
the two old temple compounds is like strolling through a quiet rural
village. The old town is beyond
the hearing range of city traffic sounds.
The new city is never very
noisy, anyway. Buildings are
rarely more than four stories high, maximum seven, and no towering skyscrapers
dominant the skyline as in Jinghong.
On my first visit in September, 1998 a row of attractive buildings and a
gilt chedi lined the river’s east
bank just below the bridge to the old town.
Menglian riverside, 1998 |
After the turn of the century I found the city demolished all
but the chedi, replacing them with a
football field. But a couple years
later the city established a new park further downriver from the chedi, that included bronze sculptures
of ethnic minority activities, a performance park, temple and other chedis, carved pillars and a palm-lined
walkway beside the river to the southern bridge.
Menglian is officially a Dai,
Lahu and Wa Autonomous County in Pu’er Prefecture. The Aini, though, are also a numerically significant
presence and so the park’s sculptures include them as subjects, too. Depictions of ethnic life include an
Aini woman carrying a pack basket that uses a shoulder board and head-strap, as
well as Dai farmers in the rice field, a Wa woman making liquor, a Lahu woman
weaving with a back-strap loom, Dai dancing girls, a Wa hunter and a Lahu
fisherman. The performance area is
the venue for government holiday events, but also the programs, usually dances,
associated with the Dai Water-Sprinkling Festival and the Wa New Rice Festival.
At those times villagers of all
ethnic minorities are in the city to watch the show and their colorful presence
enhances the events.
Lahu women in Menglian for market day |
Dai thread merchants, Menglian market |
They will also come to
Menglian, in only slightly greater numbers, for the market day the city hosts
every five days. Arriving in
trucks, minibuses and tractor-trailers, Dai, Lahu, Wa and Aini villagers swarm
into the city from early morning.
Most of then are women and dress in all or part of their traditional
outfits. Among the Dai, it’s
generally just the older women in ethnic clothing, dominated by white, gray,
blue and black, with white turbans.
The Lahu women dress in red and
Wa cap and earplugs |
black sarongs and jackets. Wa women are distinctive both by the
style of sarong, the cap laden with silver chains, perhaps with s smoking pipe
tucked into the top, and the large silver ear plugs and disc pendants they
favor for jewelry.
Aini women, though, are the
real standouts. From dark indigo
cotton cloth they weave and dye themselves they make an outfit that consists of
a plain short skirt, pleated in the back, a colored and beaded sash hanging in
front, a heavily embroidered jacket with appliquéd stripes on the sleeves,
leg-wrappers similarly appliquéd, embroidered shoulder bag and an elaborate
headdress.
Basically the headdress is a
fitted skullcap with a plate rising behind it, straight at the bottom and
rounded at the top. Rows of silver
studs and beads cover the surface of the cap, while a false hair part protrudes
below the front rim. The back
plate is covered in black cloth and often decorated with strings of beads and
rows of silver studs. From the
sides of the headdress they might drape loops of beads and to the cap attach
flowers, tassels, pompoms or green beetle wings.
Aini woman checks for messages |
AIni woman, Menglian market |
Many of the Aini men also show
up in traditional attire, though of course these are less spectacular than the
women’s. The outfit comprises
plain trousers, moderately embroidered jacket and plain turban. Lahu, Dai and Wa men dress in modern
style for the most part. But men
are a minority anyway in the city on market day, for women both run the stalls
and do the shopping. The big,
covered central market is the main venue.
But on the side streets beside it villagers set up rows of stalls. Aini women selling mountain and forest
products—wild vegetables, mushrooms, herbs, bamboo grubs and bee larvae—will
occupy one lane. On another lane
Dai women sell medicinal herbs and plants, vegetables, rice, farm tools and
wooden items like mortars, chopping blocks, bowls, etc. On other streets, for market day is not
confined to only one area, Wa and Lahu women set up stalls to hawk their
particular products.
the Menglian Lahu ethnic style |
Besides Menglian city itself,
each district in the county holds its own regular market day. The composition of the crowd will
change according to the location. The
Aini who are so prominent in the Menglian market are elsewhere only present for
market day in the border town of Mengxin, directly south of Menglian. To the north and northwest, in hilly
Nanya, Fuyan and Gongxin districts, some Dai come up from the valleys, but
those in the market are mainly Wa, from the higher villages, and Lahu from
lower on the slopes.
Southwest of Menglian, on the
main road to Myanmar, Dai and Lahu dominate the Mengma market. In Menga, the border town, the venue is
a pleasant shady grove at the edge of town. Besides the Dai locals, those in attendance include Wa and
Lahu from both China and Myanmar. You
can sort of tell them apart, even when they belong to the same sub-group. The poorer they appear to be, the more
they just look around at all the goods and the less they actually purchase, the
more likely they are to be from Myanmar.
winnowing grain near Mengma |
Both Mengma and Menga are
plains towns, so the area around them mostly consists of Dai villages, plus a
handful of resettled Wa hamlets.
Lush rice fields flank both sides of the highway and occasionally bamboo
bridges span the stream running alongside. The best time to enjoy this scenery is early autumn, when
the fields turn golden yellow and the people are out in big groups, harvesting
the crop together. After they have
threshed the grain they next winnow it by standing on a stilt. The grain thus has further to fall than
if they were doing it standing on the ground and the wind has more time to blow
away the chaff. The method may be
unique to Menglian, for I’ve not seen it elsewhere in the province.
Farmers in the hills grow a
different kind of rice, but nowadays far less than in the past. Many villages now raise tea or
sugarcane as a cash crop, since these do not take so much out of the soil as
rice does, so they do not need to make new fields for rice cultivation every
two years. Tea factories have been
set up in the hills and during the tea boom times in Xishuangbanna several
years ago, Menglian County tea cultivators also got a windfall. They didn’t spend it on building a
“modern style” concrete house to replace their own, though, as so many newly
rich Banna people did. Traditional
style still characterizes houses in the tea garden villages in the hills of
Menglian County.
Wa woman, Mengxin district |
Despite its obvious
attractions, Menglian still draws few tourists. Compared to Xishuangbanna, it is less congested, less
“touristy” and money–oriented, more authentic, its historical relics more
intact, its ethnic minorities more colorful and traditional, yet it gets only a
tiny sliver of the crowd that visits Banna. Menglian’s people don’t particularly resent that. They know their county is rather remote
and not as well connected as Banna.
The few foreigners who make it there find the people quite friendly and
quick to smile. Minority women in
town for market day do not avoid the camera nor shy away from their rare sight
of a foreigner. In fact, they may
become curious, especially the Wa, and approach the visitor, not to sell some
trinket or other, but to engage in a short conversation, short because of their
own limited knowledge of Chinese.
This is also true in the
villages far from the city. In my
own excursions in the hills there I found my unexpected presence taken not as
an intrusion but as a welcome interruption. I could not be there more than five minutes before someone
rushed to invite me inside the house for tea and talk. Learning that I lived in Thailand
provoked questions about the differences between the life of the Wa, Lahu or
Aini there and in Menglian; or even between Menglian and Xishuangbanna.
The big difference is that
Menglian doesn’t have a tourist industry.
Villagers might feel less welcoming if busloads of camera-toting
strangers descended regularly on their settlements or surrounded them in the
city on market day to get selfies with the lady in the exotic costume. In the 14 years since my initial and my
most recent visit to Menglian, the city has added new suburbs as well as parks,
and the people are as friendly, approachable and hospitable as ever. Tourists are still rare and maybe
that’s why the place is so relaxed and genuine. And because it’s so off the beaten track, maybe it will stay
charming for a long time to come.
Aini woman, Menglian market * * * |
for more on the Lahu and Aini see my e-book Xishuangbanna: the Tropics of Yunnan
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